This intake system fits all PIAGGIO 50cc and 125/180cc engine blocks. It allows the use of the largest possible reed-valve without necessitating a milling away of the firm fixing points of the original manifold. At the same time, the reed-valve block is seated deep in the engine casing in order to keep the crankshaft casing volume small. Thus, the pre-compression is maximized, a feature that is of utmost importance with high end 70cc engines. 180cc riders are now able to use the full potential of a 30mm carburetor because finally the reed-valve block is not the intake system’s bottleneck anymore.

The Kawasaki KX80’s TASSINARI reed-valve offers a 2.5-fold increase in passage as compared to the original reed-valve. At the same time, the gas flow doesn’t have to be diverted around the corner, it flows in straight just like with a kart engine. The seating of the carburetor is very firm, thus this inconspicuous system is equally suitable for road use and for tough race use. The fixing points of the Malossi rubber (has to ordered seperately) have to be cut off as the hole pattern is different. The rubber lips have to be removed, too. The stainless plate is plugged over the rubber flange and presses the manifold to the aluminium reed-valve box on tightening the four screws. Some milling work is necessary at the intake side (also possible with the use of a rotary tool).

While tightening all the screws, it is necessary to make sure they have enough clearance at the other side. If need be, the screws have to be cut to size. – For the metal clay to have an ideal fixing point, the glueing surface at the engine block should be milled with the use of a rotary tool (metallic blank) shortly before the glueing process. After this has been done, the glueing surface should be degreased with the help of cleaning solvent and finally should be heated lightly by a heat gun. The metal clay has to be kneaded well. It is of advantage to mill the walls of a hole diagonally in order for the clay to be pressed more firmly into the hole by the internal pressure of the crankshaft casing. With bigger holes, it is also possible to press a thin plate (0.3mm from the DIY store) against the hole.